Pompei

After a lot of museums and art in Florence and Venice, we were both excited to check out the outdoor, less religious archeological ruins in Pompei.  We left Florence and hopped a train to Naples, from which we could take a Metro train to Pompei.  The train from Florence to Naples was very pleasant (as all of our train rides have been).  But when we stepped onto the Metro train we were both very skeptical.  The trains and stations were covered in graffiti, and I kid you not, there was not one person with any kind of luggage on the train besides us - the stick out like a sore thumb - 30 lb. backpack carrying Americans.  As we neared Pompei some of the fellow train riders actually started discussing (in Italian with constant head nods and gestures towards us) whether we were actually on the right train.  Uncomfortable is an understatement.  Eventually we convinced them that we did in fact know where were going and were confident we were on the right train.  We appreciated the kindness and concern, but we have to admit, we were nervous about the whole thing.  After this whole episode I (Jill) was convinced our hotel in Pompei would be a complete crap shoot and we'd be lucky to have clean sheets.  Boy, was I wrong.

Pompei is a pretty small town, apart from the ruins and we were able to find our hotel (despite trying to call the number on the email reservation and being told by an automated message that the number was disconnected) after a 10-15 minute walk.  It was hands down THE nicest hotel we have stayed in yet.  It was modern, spacious and very comfortable.  The staff were very friendly and recommended that in addition to checking out the ruins, we also go see Vesuvio. 

After dropping the bags in the room we went over to check out the ruins, conveniently located directly across the street.  We would've had a great view but they have the whole sidewalk lined with massive trees that blocked our view.  We entered the ruins at the south-eastern corner near a large amphitheater.   It was nothing compared to what we had in store.  As we started walking and trying to follow the different points of interest on our map we got pretty overwhelmed with the whole city.  Just picturing that this whole place was under 6 meters of ash and mud for over 1300 years and has all been excavated is pretty incredible.  We spent over 4 hours walking through the city, during which we saw a lot of temples, bakeries, the forum, houses of upper class rulers and politicians, bones, and plaster casts of dead Pompeiians (see picture above) and believe it or not, a brothel.  We caught the tail end of an English speaking tour guide explaining the brothel and the open rooms with stone beds.  Above the rooms were pictures depicting ways to be "creative" in the brothel.  (Pictures will be posted soon).  Basically it was ancient porn!

During this whole trip we've discussed how people in Italy probably view American tourists.  Some probably aren't so bad, some stick out like a sore thumb.  We'd like to think (with the exception of the drunken night in Florence) that we fall under the category of the non-annoying ones.  Unfortunately, the annoying ones seem to pick us out and talk to us like we're best buds.  Enter the Nebraskan guy with cowboy hat, and family.  Backstory - when we arrived in Pompei we spotted a Burger King next to the hotel and figured we'd grab a quick bite before the ruins.  In front of us was a rather large man wearing a cowboy hat, speaking with a Southern accent ordering two meals for himself.  He must have heard us talking and turned around to spark up a conversation.  At first, he wasn't all that bad and it was to hear an American voice.  But then, he wouldn't leave us alone, and we discovered he was staying in the same hotel.  He was also about to go into the ruins with his wife and kids. Cut back to us in the ruins.  We stop for a drink in the cafeteria and wouldn't you know our Nebraskan friend is sitting inside with his wife.  We said a quick hello and then tried to sit away from them, but of course they had to come over to say hello :)  After a few minutes of light conversation we thought wed mention the brothels to them to see if a.  it'd freak them out and they'd go away or b.  they'd be interested and leave immediately to go see it.  Option b it was.

We finished the ruins tour right before it closed at 7 pm and came back to shower and head to the hotel recommended "President Ristorante".  As we are walking into the lobby to leave, wouldn't luck have it that we see our friends again.  We tried our best not to mention where we were headed as we didn't want any dinner guests.  We shot out the door and started our walk to the restaurant.  The whole time we've been in Italy we've gotten used to the later dinner time (ie - 8-9 pm) and since it was 8 pm when we left we though the restaurant would be packed…..NOPE.  We sat in their outside dining area, with a clear view of the inside dining area from 8-10 pm and we were the only guests there.  How the place is still in business is a mystery to us.  (Brian and I are convinced it has something to do with Italian mafia, but have no basis for this theory).  It was a shame because the food was incredible!  Definitely top 3 meals we've had so far. 


The next day we decided to check out Vesuvius since we weren't in a huge rush to get to Rome.  They have lots of tour buses that go up and down the volcano all day long.  You take the bus about 3 quarters of the way up the mountain and then you have to walk the rest.  We were lucky enough to get to ride front seat on the top level of a double decker tour bus.  Scariest 50 minutes of our lives!!  Picture a one lane road winding up the steepest mountain you've ever seen.  Now imagine riding up that road on a massive tour bus.  The bus had to honk its horn before going around each of the 30 blind, hairpin turns to make sure we didn't collide with any incoming traffic.  It was insane.  We actually took about a 3 minute video of the ride, during which we has to slide past another bus coming in the opposite direction.  We'll post the video online when we get back - check it out.

The volcano was by far the best unplanned part of the trip.  I can't believe we didn't consider climbing the mountain when we planned this trip.  It was so beautiful!!!!  We were able to listen to a tour gulled explain the history of the explosions, eruptions and changes that have taken place over at least 1,000 years.  Most notable was that the mountain used to be 1 large peak until the 79 AD eruption in which the peak split - giving it the two-peaked appearance it has to this day.  It was crazy to think that this same mountain that buried ancient Pompei in all that ash and rubble.  The bus ride down wasn't nearly as eventful as the ride up (thankfully).  And once we reached the bottom we packed our stuff to head to Rome. 

PS - we didn't get a chance to see our American friends before we left that afternoon, but we did have the "pleasure" of seeing them during breakfast earlier in the morning.  JOY.  After another ride on the graffiti train it was back to Naples and then off to 5 days in Rome!